Pugh-esque Militarium – Bryce Aime AW2011, London FW

If it was that his last season’s collection was shifting away from what Bryce Aime is usually like, this season the French born and Central St. Martins graduate fashion designer returned to his signature: dark graphics and sculptural, Pugh-esque shapes.

If it was that his last season’s collection was shifting away from what Bryce Aime is usually like, this season the French born and Central St. Martins graduate fashion designer returned to his signature: dark graphics and sculptural, Pugh-esque shapes.

Bryce Aime's signature: dark graphics and sculptural, Pugh-esque shapes.

Aime created the strongest ever collection that truly epitomises his individual style. Inspired by the stereotype of an army barracks, an array of structural and androgynous silhouettes enhances the authoritative theme and remains the militarism throughout, which is sharp, cold and still.

Sharp, cold and still militarism.

Paradoxically, strong and harsh tailoring jackets are teamed up with soft edged, classical cutting dresses and skirts. Fabric panels of jersey and silk contract with other metallic textures that bring a heavier edge to the garments. Flashes of silver and beige brighten the overalls and enhance the astrological and geometrical graphic prints.

Strong and harsh tailoring.

The AW2011 collection also saw the collaboration between Bryce Aime and acclaimed bag designer Brancher Emden which is known for its Breast Bag. The merging of these two talents created a capsule collection of bags that were the perfect compliment for the show: the multi- dimensional and sporty chain bag and backpack were interesting accents to Bryce Aime’s conceptual garments.

The bags as interesting accents to Bryce Aime’s conceptual garments.

The visually striking culminating pieces showcases in the lobby of The May Fair Hotel throughout the fashion week. As being said to be the soul of the collection, it pushes the boundaries in terms of shapes and material used. The fabric is ‘framed’ in plexiglass, resulting in a masterpiece, which goes beyond fashion.

Flashes of silver and beige brighten the overalls and enhance the astrological and geometrical graphic prints.

With many thanks to Keira Zhang for her contribution.

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