Ready to Board – Liz Black SS 2012, London FW

Liz Black Spring Summer 2012. Picture: Manuel Bischof

While sauntering through the designer’s exhibition at London Fashion Week, I came across a small but pretty collection, featuring mostly dresses in aquarelle colours and structural shapes.

It was Liz Black‘s second ready-to-wear collection, a more grown-up version and the logical followup of her Autumn / Winter ‘Concentric Thoughts‘ one that was inspired by artist Sonia Delaunay, known for her paintings featuring geometric shapes in bright colours.

Pale lilac, white and greys make the reduced colour scheme. Picture: Manuel Bischof

Innovative and daring yet elegant designs. Picture: Manuel Bischof

This season isn’t that far away: Architect Zaha Hadid‘s metal and glass buildings and designs by Markus Benesch have catered major references for the elegant, conceptual work as well as ‘luxurious leather goods, angular design and interiors along with many ideas associated with the concepts of movement, power, travel and speed.’ Crêpe de Chine, double silk, lamb nappa leather, eel skin and duchess satin are the high quality key materials used for these minimalistic statement pieces that come in a reduced colour palette including pale lilac, white and greys.

'The Liz Black woman is sophisticated and cosmopolitan.' All pictures below: Curtis Gibson. Stylist: Sarah-Adiana Butler. Hair Stylist: Haruhide Ishizaki. MUA: Lina Dahibeck

Oh and you have to know that within this white dresses lie about two hundred working hours. Although the built in pyramids embellishing the front sides – called ‘the art pieces’ by the team – are neither big nor small but something undecided in between and it all looks a bit too laboured, I much respect the skills behind this constructed, clean collection. Targeted at the 25- to 45-year-old cosmopolitan woman, the timeless dresses, jackets and trousers are all about the lines, texture and detailing and remain wearable throughout the collection. Venezuela-born Liz Black graduated in Fashion Design (Print) from London’s Central Saint Martins and has worked as print assistant for Diane von Furstenberg in New York and Emilio de la Morena in London. Since launching her own label in 2010 she is undoubtedly one to watch and has won the AKDK’s e-Creative ‘Best Emerging Fashion Designer’ Award amongst others. Hey, even walking fashion doll Lady Gaga got spotted wearing Liz’s ‘Bow Circle Dress’. This I don’t know from her personally, but I had the change to speak to one of her pattern cutters, Alexis Cawley.

Impeccably tailored pieces that complement the feminine silhouette for the modern fashionable women.

Alexis, how was it to work for Liz Black those weeks before London Fashion Week?

It was pretty hectic as you can imagine, but fun. We’ve been working seven days a week for the last month or so but it has been very rewarding.

Which piece of the collection is your favourite and why?

I like the long duchess satin dresses, it is such a beautiful fabric to work with and it holds the geometrical shape really well.

What have you had for breakfast?

Coffee


A minimalistic and elegant aesthetic with an emphasis on structural shapes.

As pattern cutter, how much influence do you have on the design?

As a pattern cutter I’m there to realise the designer’s vision. Having said this, there will inevitably be some influence with regard to shape and proportion as every cutter has their own particular handwriting.

Thank you for your time.

'I think my Latin spirit and my optimism have never let me stop fighting.' - Liz Black

Angularity as a key element.

Sensual and sensible in every way - detachable shoulder piece.

'I was inspired by geometric shapes to develop my collection' - Liz Black

Eel skin trench, the collection's deerest piece.

Retail price ranges from around 300 (shirts) to 1200 (jackets).

Over 200 hours of hours worked on.

Liz Black Spring Summer 2012

See more of Liz Black on her website or on her blog.

 
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